Exceptional Bordeaux Primeurs 2022
By Maitre de Cave
Maître de Cave presents our list of Exceptional Wines from the April 2023 Primeur Tastings in Bordeaux during the last week of April. The list of Exceptional Wines from the 2022 vintage is significantly larger than the 2021 vintage. The reason there are more Exceptional Wines, and generally higher, overall ratings, is because the vintage is significantly better.
This exceptional vintage 2022
Our overall assessment of the 2022 wines is that this vintage is outstanding. The Exceptional Wines are intense with higher ABVs. They exude complex, concentrated fruit on both the nose and palate. Despite the intensity, there is a lively freshness that provides excellent balance and exposes subtlety and nuance.
With the excessive heat and drought conditions, the lively freshness in the vintage has inspired property owners, winemakers, and vignerons to consider the underlying cause. Various evaluations surfaced during our tastings, and we mention them here as a matter of interest. A celebrated property owner surmised that the improved health of the vines and the quality of the soil, both due to better vineyard management during the past several years, permitted the vines to search deeper for water that previously had already been too deep. Resilence at work…
Timely rains
A well-known winemaker proposed that deep roots would not have mattered if the well-timed rains in June and August had not occurred. We believe it is a combination of both the well-timed rain and healthier vines that helped preserve of the fruit and generate the freshness that characterizes the 2022 vintage reds.
As we indicate in our review of the effect of 2022 weather on the vineyards and grapes, frost may have played a greater role in determining the quality of the vintage than originally believed. The outstanding quality of the vintage varies by the significance and dominance of Merlot in any assemblage. The ability of each individual producer to adjust their assemblage to compensate for the inferior quantity and the imperfect quality of the Merlot determined the quality of the final wine. However, quality is not concentrated in any specific AOC because each house has their own, unique assemblage, their specific technology, and their individual methodology.
Powerful Cabernets
After our tasting of close to 600 wines it is obvious to us that the 2022 vintage is the year of Powerful Cabernet-Driven Reds.
The exceptional wines are rated 96/100 and beyond
Our scoring is based on a 100-point scale.
- The wines that score from 96 – 100 are Exceptional with the potential to cellar extensively and to improve greatly with the additional age.
- Wines scoring from 90 – 95 are Outstanding with the potential to cellar extensively and to improve with the additional age.
- Wines scoring from 85 – 89 are Fine wines with the potential to cellar and to improve with the additional age.
- Wine scoring from 80 – 84 are Satisfactory with a limited potential to improve with additional age.
The Bordeaux Primeurs 2022 wines by Maitre de Cave in 3 posts
We present our Exceptional selections as the first of three articles concerning the 2022 vintage. The second article will be a release of our Outstanding wines which constitute the balance of the wines that scored 90 points or above. Finally, we shall release a list of all the wines we tasted with their scores and accompanying tasting notes.
Our 23 exceptional Bordeaux Primeurs 2022
Following is our list of Exceptional wines from the 2022 vintage with individual tasting notes. These are the best wines we tasted. We have organized the wines by color and then by Style – Dry White, Sweet White, and then Red. The presentation order is by Note. The Note is the result of our combined scores and a review of our tasting notes. Within any Note – Point-Value, we have sorted the wines by alphabetical order, and not according to our preferences.
Please enjoy our reviews !
Exceptional dry White Primeurs Wines 2022
96/100 2022 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Léognan
28% Sauvignon Blanc, 72% Sémillon
The crystalline wine is brilliant with a pale straw robe and green reflections. The aromas are fresh and aromatic with traces of vanilla, oak, and lees. The palate is crisp and intense with a silken texture and a fruity roundness in the middle with touches of grapefruit and pineapple. The minerality coalesces the flavors and creates the harmony that drives the long well balanced finish. One senses the richness of the oak and the power of the alcohol, but both are already well integrated in the wine. The wine is elegant with excellent potential for a long life in the cellar.
96/100 2022 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux, Bordeaux
100% Sauvignon Blanc
The wine, brilliant and crystalline, wears a pale robe with silver reflections. The nose is powerful and aromatic with aromas of the rinds of clementine and lime, a bouquet of fresh jasmine and honeysuckle, and sliced green apple and white peach delicately infused with anise and bergamot. The palate is complex and long with an intense, flinty minerality. The stirred lees give the wine an elegant creaminess with a silken texture that displays the flavors of mandarin and lime, aromatic white flowers, and Comice pear. The oak is young and prevalent throughout. It supports the aromas and flavors without hiding any of the wine’s freshness vitality. This wine needs some cellaring time to unify its diversity and complexity.
Two Sauternes 2022
Cellar master has only tasted a small batch of Sauternes grands crus, our selection is not currently representative of the Primeurs 2022 of this appellation.
97/100 2022 Château de Fargues, Fargues, Sauternes
20% Sauvignon Blanc, 80% Sémillon
The brilliant and crystalline appearance displays a rich, golden robe with hues of red walnut shells. The nose breathes aromas of baked pineapple, lemon-vanilla pudding, and fresh, ripe apricots. The palate is luxurious with a viscous texture. The fruit is fresh on the palate, intense and sweet, with a wonderful acidity. The wine is already complex with an excellent balance that portends a long, delicious future.
96/100 2022 Château Suduiraut, Sauternes, Sauternes – Premier Cru Classé
100% Sémillon
The robe is an intense golden yellow that is both crystalline and brilliant. The nose is fresh and intense with aromas of pineapple, white nectarine, and apricot macerated in triple sec and wildflower honey. The palate is syrupy imparting flavors of pineapple upside-down cake. The complexity of the wine and its fine acidity refreshes the sweetness. This wine will endure well beyond 20 years and greatly benefit from its long rest in the cellar.
Exceptional Red Bordeaux Primeurs 2022
99/100 2022 Château Calon Ségur, Saint-Estèphe – Grand Cru Classé – Troisième Cru
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
Primeurs 2022 at Calon Ségur
Bright and clear the intense purple robe exhibits no reflections. Pomegranate introduces powerful aromas of luscious black cherry spiced with green peppercorns. Blackberry jam and liquorice round off the nose. The palate is tense and long with a subtle salinity and remarkable freshness. Savory black currant and spice dominate the touches of rose petal and violets. Rich oak and quality tannins are present in the structure and velveteen texture without dominating the subtle complexity of fruit and spice. The wine is elegant and perfectly balanced. It is a classic and very near perfection in the glass.
99/100 2022 Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion – Premier Grand Cru Classé A
31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc
The intense, nearly opaque, purple robe has a black center without any rim variation. Violets introduce the intense blackberry, black cherry, and cassis with a breath of fresh grapes aromas. Thyme and black pepper season them, and the richness of well-toasted, sweet oak complete the nose. The palate is lively and incorporates blackberries, cassis, and baking spices. The balance is fresh with a full and complex body. The texture is silky with ripe tannins that fill the mouth. This is an exceptional and extraordinary wine. The great quality of this vintage wonderfully commemorates the promotion of Château Figeac to Saint-Émilion – Grand Cru Classé A.
This 2022 Figeac is one of the finest we have ever tasted, and it is one that belongs in every serious collector’s cellar !
98/100 2022 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac – Grand Cru Classé – Premier Grand Cru Classé
94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot
The intense purple robe darkens to black in the center yet remains luminous and clear. The aromas are intense, promising, and expressive with hibiscus and rose petals, pomegranate, and blackberry with hints of coffee, liquorice, and redolent of garrigue and bramble. The ample palate is well-structured with sturdy, sweet oak framing raspberry and cassis. The feel is elegant and velvety and sculpted with great finesse offering comfort and satisfaction in its long finish.
This powerful wine, although balanced perfectly for immediate consumption, will develop great complexity as it rests in the cellar.
98/100 2022 Château Margaux, Margaux – Grand Cru Classé – Premier Grand Cru Classé
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc
Brilliant and clear, the robe is an intense purple with a black center and no rim variation. The nose is intense and expressive, with aromas of peony and rose petals, fresh black cherry, black currants, and olallieberry. The palate is similarly intense and filled with blackberry and black plum seasoned with an aromatic bouquet of thyme, mint, toasted fennel seed, and crushed green peppercorns. The tannins are ripe and soft, and the oak is sweet from a deep, dark toast. The finish is long and savory exhibiting Itxassou black cherry jam and dark roast coffee. The wine is a complex of delicious flavors.
97/100 2022 Château Ausone, Saint-Émilion – Premier Grand Cru Classé A
50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc
The bright purple robe blackens with intensity in the center. The aromas are powerful, complex, and elegant, and they include violets, black cherry, and olallieberry, seasoned with thyme, and black pepper.
The complex palate shows young, well-balanced, and long exhibiting ripe, black cherries and bramble, with sweet black liquorice, green peppercorn, and expresso roast coffee with a splash of semi-sweet chocolate. The tannins are ripe, and the sweet, well-seasoned oak is young and structured. The finish is intense, long, and well balanced, and it beautifully exhibits the lovely complexity of the old vine Cabernet Franc. It is an exceptional wine for an exceptional wine collection.
97/100 2022 Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan – Grand Cru Classé – Premier Grand Cru Classé
35,4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 53,6 Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc
The deep violet robe is clear and bright with an almost black center and no rim variation. The nose is vivid and fresh with aromas of crushed red cherry and blackberry perfumed with green peppercorns and aromatic herbs. The palate is restrained but complex, rich in black cherry and toasted black peppercorns. The finish is long and perfectly balanced. The wine’s subtlety displays complexity through finesse rather than power giving it a drinkability at this very early stage of its life.
97/100 2022 Château Tauzinat L’Hermitage, Saint-Émilion – Grand Cru
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc
The wine with its bright, clear, and violet robe is intense with cherry reflections. The nose is aromatic with good intensity exhibiting aromas of raspberry, red currant, and pomegranate with a dash of white and grey peppercorn and a hint of eucalyptus and fresh mint. The palate shows flavors of wild, mountain strawberries and red cherries with aromatic garrigue. The oak is slightly green and refreshing with a touch of astringency, yet the tannins are soft and slightly floury. The wine has exceptional balance with a nice tension and a long finish, without exceptional intensity. This is a subtle wine that has very fine aromas and flavors.
The wine is exceptional and wonderfully drinkable, and it should offer great value when the château announces its prices.
96/100 2022 Château Carbonnieux, Pessac-Léognan – Grand Cru Classé de Graves
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc 5% Petit Verdot
The robe is an intense, bright, and clear violet without any rim variation. Fruit aromas of black cherry, olallieberry, and cassis dominate the intense and complex nose that is nuanced with aromatic seasoning of freshly ground black peppercorn and a pinch of Herbs de Provence. The palate is similarly intense showing blackberry and bramble, dried thyme, and a whisper of M+ sweet oak. The finish is long and fruit-driven with a fine balance of freshness and intensity without weight. The wine has a subtle herbal character throughout, a nuance of Cabernet that, in this wine, increases character and does not detract from quality. The wine shows well now, but it should develop greater complexity in the cellar.
96/100 2022 Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion – Premier Grand Cru Classé A
1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 53% Cabernet Franc
The intense, purple robe is bright and clear with an opaque center and without any rim variation.
The nose is expressive and promising with powerful aromas of rose petal, black cherry and blackberry with green peppercorn, green olive, and mint nuances and a breath of aromatic garrigue. Youthful tannins and intense medium-plus and long toasted mature oak support and direct the flavors of dried peony, black cherry, black currant, and blueberry seasoned with freshly ground, green peppercorn, baking spice, and dried herbs. The texture adds to the elegance of the long, well balanced finish. This is a firmly structured wine with exceptional power, and it will require initial and endure extended cellaring.
96/100 2022 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac – Grand Cru Classé – Cinquième Cru
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
Bright and clear the intense, purple robe concentrates to an opaque center. The slightly closed nose shows a delicious minerality, hints of rising dough, and a lit match, but with some aeration, it develops expressive hibiscus and luscious red currant, red cherry, and cassis. The aromas are seasoned with green peppercorn and dried savory. The youthful palate shows red currant, red cherry, and touches of black cherry, cassis, and powdered thyme. The firm structure, textured tannins, fresh acidity, and well-toasted sweet oak contribute elegance, balance, and a very long finish. This is an exceptional wine with power and complexity, perfect for maturing in the cellar.
96/100 2022 Château La Fleur de Boüard, Le Plus de La Fleur de Boüard, Lalande de Pomerol
100% Merlot
Bright, clear, and intense, the purple hues reflect brilliant cherry. The fresh, red currant, raspberry, and blackberry aromas hide behind the fresh red roses, aromatic thyme and mint, and well-toasted, spicy, sweet oak. These balanced aromas are robust and promising. The palate delivers crushed raspberry, black cherry, and blackberry with touches of cassis. Green peppercorn and nutmeg season the palate. The long finish is round and voluptuous with soft, ripe tannins and well-toasted oak. This is a truly complex wine that requires time in the cellar.
96/100 2022 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan
61% Cabernet Sauvignon,18 % Merlot,21 % Cabernet Franc
This intense wine shows a bright and clear, deep purple-blackberry robe and with cherry reflections. The aromas are powerful, promising, and charming displaying fresh red currant, cherry, and blackberry with aromatic crushed green peppercorn and smashed mint. The palate is clean and precise showing elegant black cherry bonbons, cassis, and blackberry. The wine has a beautiful length that is well balanced. The oak is well-toasted and delivers a spicy character that combines well with the savory palate. The tannins are ripe and fine with a softness that enhances elegance. The wine is powerful without excess. It is well-structured, and it displays like a fine sculpture.
96/100 2022 Château Le Gay, Pomerol
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
Brilliant and clear in the glass, the wine displays a robe of intense purple with an opaque center. The aromas of crushed red cherries, raspberries, and the powdery hints of bramble are spiced with freshly ground black peppercorns. The palate exhibits flavors of raspberries and blackberries seasoned with dried herbs and baking spices. The finish is long and promising with freshness and excellent balance. Tannins are youthful but soft, and the well-toasted oak is elegant and smooth. This is a powerful wine with subtle nuance.
96/100 2022 Château Monlot, Saint-Émilion – Grand Cru
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc
Bright and clear, the robe is an intense deep purple with brilliant cherry reflections. The aromas are powerful and expressive with great complexity displaying hibiscus and violets, black cherry, blackberry, and sweet oak. The palate is intense with a velvety texture, supple tannins, and rich well-toasted oak. The black fruits continue from the nose to the palate creating a long, pleasant, and well balanced finish. The power here does not masque the nuance that is a constant source of pleasure in the wine.
96/100 2022 Château Pédesclaux, Pauillac – Grand Cru Classé – Cinquième Cru
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
Luminous and clear, the intense purple robe deepens to an almost black center. The nose is luscious and promising with powerful and complex aromas of peony and violets, raspberry, black cherry, blueberry, cassis, and plum, seasoned with green peppercorn, and aromatic tobacco leaf and angelica. The palate is fresh, with a full body, firm structure, elegance, and a very long, complex, balanced finish. It displays flavors of rose petal, blueberry black cherry, ground clove and black peppercorn. The savor of sweet, high and long-toast oak enriches the senses.
This is one of the best Pédesclaux we have tasted.
96/100 2022 Château Phelan Ségur, Saint-Estèphe
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 56% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
The intense violet-purple robe shines bright and clear with cherry reflections on the edges and a darkening center. The aromas are balanced and fresh with an elegant complexity. It shows round and sweet oak with scents of peony and rose, red currant, red cherry, plum and blackberry spiced with green peppercorn and clove with hints of mint, coffee, and yeast. The palate displays violets, black currant, and blackberry with dried thyme. The sweet oak is more intense on the palate with a medium-plus and long toast. The finish is long, fruity, and round with a velvety texture.
96/100 2022 Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac – Grand Cru Classé – Deuxième Cru
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
The intense violet-purple robe has a blue lamé and a luminous clarity that displays crimson reflections. The aromas are intense, bold, and promising showing raspberry, and black cherry seasoned with baking spices. The palate is fresh and structured with soft tannin showing blackberry, cassis, and crushed green peppercorn that offers a slightly bitter complexity. The oak is young and omnipresent, and it gives the wine structure and an interesting firmness. This is a well-structured wine with exceptional character.
96/100 2022 Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac – Grand Cru Classé – Deuxième Cru
62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot
The intense, purple robe shows bright and clear without any rim variation and darkens to a black center. The intense aromas are expressive and show rose petals and violets, red currant, raspberry, and blackberry jam with notes of liquorice, green peppercorn, and baking spice. The palate is ample and complex with a full, well-structured body. Savors of roses, black and red cherry, and crushed black peppercorn are seasoned with nutmeg and Herbes de Provence. The wine is complex and powerful with a long well balanced finish that sustains its luscious qualities. The well integrated, medium-plus toasted oak augments the velvety feel of the ripe tannins and adds a nice spiciness to the finish. This is an exemplary wine.
96/100 2022 Cos d’Estournel, Saint-Estèphe – Grand Cru Classé – Deuxième Cru
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
The intense purple robe is brilliant and clear with cherry reflections. Spicy and sweet medium-plus toasted oak frames the intense black cherry, blackberry, cassis, and crushed black peppercorn aromas. The spiced oak forms the framework for the intense blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. The oak is integral not overpowering. It contributes spice, structure, and texture. This is a lean wine with intense fruit that is neither luscious or jammy. It is a classic Cos d’Estournel.
Visiting Cos d’Estournel during the Bordeaux Primeurs 2022
The Exception as a conclusion
Given the tremendous quality of Bordeaux Primeurs 2022 wines, Cellar Master did not post a Top Ten! We should have published the Top 23, there were so many exceptional primeur wines to take into account…